سیر تطور سرجامه‌های اندرونی و بیرونی زنان بر اساس روان شناسی فرهنگی در عصر قاجار

روان‌شناسی فرهنگی زن

مقاله 3، دوره 15، شماره 55، فروردین 1402، صفحه 37-54   

نوع مقاله: مقاله پژوهشی

شناسه دیجیتال (DOI): 10.22034/jwcp.2023.701764

نویسندگان

آمنه مافی تبار^{* 1}؛ سید عبدالمجید شریف زاده²

¹استادیار، گروه طراحی پارچه و لباس، دانشکده هنرهای کاربردی، دانشگاه هنر، تهران، ایران.

²استادیار، گروه پژوهش هنرهای سنتی، پژوهشگاه سازمان میراث فرهنگی و گردشگری، تهران، ایران.

چکیده

هدف پژوهش حاضر، بررسی سیر تطور سرجامه ­های اندرونی و بیرونی زنان بر اساس روان شناسی ­فرهنگی در عصر قاجار بود. جامعة پژوهش، کلیة متون روان شناسی ­فرهنگی و تاریخ­نگاری مربوط به سرجامگان زنان عصر قاجار بود. نمونة پژوهش، انواع سرجامة زنانه عصر قاجار بود که به­ صورت هدفمند بر تاج، تاج­کلاه، سربند، عرقچین، لچک و چارقد، چادر، چادر گل­دار، روبنده و پیچه مشتمل شد. روش پژوهش کیفی به شیوة توصیفی ـ تحلیلی است.  جمع آوری اطلاعات کتابخانه­ ای، به صورت فیش ­برداری و بررسی تصاویر ازمیان منابع روان­شناسی­ فرهنگی و تاریخ ­نگاری موجود، مورد بررسی قرار گرفت. نتایج نشان داد که در طول تاریخ حکومت قاجاریان، در باب سرجامگان زنانة فضای اندرونی؛ تاج و تاج­کلاه در طبقات فرادست جای خود را به چارقد و لچک سپرد؛ اما درمقابل پوشش سر در فضای بیرونی تقریباً ثابت باقی ماند و سرجامة اندرونی در مرور ایام، کامل­تر و کم­تکلف­تر شد. از سوی دیگر؛ در برابر این دگرگونی در فضای داخلی، سرجامة بیرونی یعنی چادر، روبنده و پیچه بود که تقریباً به سنت پیشین خود وفاداری نشان داد و در طول حیات خود، با تغییر جزیی در جنس، پیچه ­های بافته شده از موی اسب جایگزین روبنده­های پارچه­ ای شد. درمجموع می ­توان نتیجه گرفت درمقابل تنوع و دیگرگونی در انواع سرجامگان زنانة اندرونی در عصر قاجار ازیک ­سو و منسوجات کاربردی در تهیة آن­ها از سوی دیگر؛ پوشش سر در بیرون، محدود و ثابت ماند.

کلیدواژه‌ها

سرجامة اندرونی؛ سرجامة بیرونی؛ روان شناسی فرهنگی؛ عصر قاجار

سایر فایل های مرتبط با مقاله

55-3-3.pdf

مراجع

Abazari, M., & Tayebi, H. (2017). A comparative study of Qajar women’s clothing before and after Nasser-Din Shah’s trip to europe (case study: women’s traditional and modern clothing). Scientific Journal of Reaserch of Art, 7(13), 15-30. [Persian] URL: http://ph.aui.ac.ir/article-1-346-fa.html

Anet, C. (1907). Les Roses D'ispahan: La Perse en Automobile à Travers la Russie et le Caucase. Translated by Fazlollah Jelveh. (1991). Tehran: Rvayat. [Persian] URL:  https://www.gisoom.com/book/11527247/

Anet, C. (1924). Feuilles persanes (p. 13). Translated by Iraj Poroushani. (1989). Tehran: Moeen. [Persian] URL: http://ensani.ir/fa/article/197177/

Aubin, E. (1908). La Perse d'aujourd'hui- Iran, Mésopotamie. Translated by Aliasghar Saeedi. (1983). Tehran: Zavarpublishment. [Persian] URL: https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/18653172

Bishop, I. B. (1891). ‎Jurneys in persia and Kurdistan. Translated by Mehrab Amiri. (1996). Tehran: Sepand. [Persian] URL: https://babadi.ir/?p=1003

Bontemps, Ch. A. (1809). Voyage en Turqiu et en Perse 1807. Translated by Mansoure Nezammafi. (1975). Ettehadie. Tehran: Sepehr. [Persian] URL: https://persianbook.org/books.php?Module= SMMPBBooks&SMMOp=BookDB&SMM_CMD=&BookId=69524&

Brugsch, H. K. (1964). Im Lande Der Sonne. Translated by Majid Jalilvand. (1995). Tehran: Nashre Markaz. [Persian] URL: http://dl.bookiha.com/tarikh/dar%20sarzamine%20aftab

Curzon, G. N. (1892). Persia and persian question. Translated by Vahid Mazandarani. (1983). Tehran: Elmi Farhangi. [Persian] URL:https://www.gisoom.com/book/1606241/

D'Allemagne, H. R. (1911). From Khorassan to the land of the Backhtiaris: three months of travel in Persia (pp. 415-417). Translated by Gholamreza Samiei. (1999). Tehran: Tavous. [Persian] URL: https://www.gisoom.com/book/1165901/2/

Dieulafoy, J. (1887) .La Perse, la Chaldee et la Susiane: Relation de Voyage. Translated by Homayoun Farahvashi. (1953). Tehran: Khayyam. [Persian] URL: https://www.gisoom.com/book/1161150/

Drouville, G. (1918). Travel in Persia during the years 1812 and 1813. Translated by Manouchehr Etemad Moghadam. (1988). 3^rd Ed. Tehran: Shabaviz. [Persian] URL: https://www.gisoom.com/book/123868/

Falk, S. J. (1972). Qajar paintings: Persian oil paintings of the 18th & 19th centuries. Translated by Alireza Baharlou. (2014). Tehran: Peykare. [Persian]. URL:https://shahreketabonline.com/Products/Details/119703/

Feuvrier, J. (1900). Three years at the Persian court. Translated by Eghbal Ashtiani. (1983). 2^nd Ed. Tehran: Donyaye Ketab. [Persian] URL:https://www.gisoom.com/book/1734002/

Forbes Leith, F. (1927). Chechmate: Fighting Tradition in Central Parsia. Translated by Hoseyn Aboutorabian. (1987). Tehran: Ettelaat. [Persian] URL:https://esam.ir/item/24145476/

Fraser, J. B. (1938). A winter's Journey (Tatar) from constantinople to Tehran. Translated by Manouchehr Amiri. (1985). Tehran: Toos Book. [Persian] URL: https://ketabnak.com/book/77973/

Gheibi, M. (2006). An 8000- Year History of Persian Costum. Tehran: Hirmad Book Store. [Persian] URL:https://www.iranketab.ir/book/13569-eight-thousand-years-of-ethnic-garment-history

Hedouin, J. (1927). Au soleil de Perse. Translated by Mostafa Mohazab. (1945). Tehran: Chehr. [Persian] URL: https://fidibo.com/book/130924

Jahani, M, & Changiz. S. (2007). A comparative study in women's fashion during Fath-ali-Shah and Naser-al-Din Shah’s court. Journal of Woman in Culture Arts, 9(3), 385-407. [Persian] URL: 10.22059/JWICA.2017.235507.897

Jaubert, P. A. (1821). Voyage en Armenie et en Perse. Translated by A. Etemad Moghadam. (1968). Tehran: Bonyad-e Farhang-e Iran. [Persian] URL:https://www.iranketab.ir/book/9267-travel-to-armenia-and-iran

Mac Gregor, C. M. (1879). Narrative of a journey through the province of Khorassan and on the N.W. frontier of Afghanistan in 1875. Translated by Majid Mehdizade. (1987). Mashhad: Astan-e Qods Razavi. [Persian] URL:https://ketabnak.com/book/83615/

Mac Kenzie, C. (1880). Travel to Iran.  Translated by Mansoure Nezammafi Ettehadie. (1980). Tehran: Gostare. [Persian] URL: https://ketabnak.com/book/23442/

Malcom, J. (1815). History of Iran. Translated by Mirza Mohammadali Heyrat. (1983). Tehran: Donyaye Ketab. [Persian] URL:https://esam.ir/item/6403921/

Masaharu, Y. (uncertain). Mission to Persia. Translated by Hashem Rajabzade. (2011). 2^nd Ed. Mashhad: Astan Quds Razavi. [Persian] URL: https://www.gisoom.com/book/1842229/

Matin, P. (2004). Persian Clothes. Tehran: Daftar-e Pazhouheshhay-e Farhangi. [Persian] URL:https://www.gisoom.com/book/11074966/

Mobini, M. & Asadi, A. (2017). A Study on Fashion and Clothing of the Qajar Period. Tehran: Alzahra. [Persian] URL: https://www.iranketab.ir/book/13571-qajar-period-fashion-and-clothing

Morier, J. J. (1818). A Journey through Persia, Armenia, and Asia Minor, to constantinople, in the years 1808 and 1809. Translated by Abolghasem Serri. (2011). Tehran: Toos. [Persian] URL:https://www.gisoom.com/book/1428551/

Mounsei Sorkheh, M. (2017). History of Iranian Clothing in the Qajar Era. Tehran: Alzahra &Morakab-e Sepid. [Persian] URL:https://www.iranketab.ir/book/13570-iranian-clothing-in-the-qajar-era.

Moser, H.(1907). Travels in Iran and the Caucasus (1647 - 1654). Translated by Ali Moallem. (1977). By M. Golbon. Tehran: Sahar. [Persian] URL:https://ketabnak.com/book/94413/

Olivier, G. A. (1801). Journey through the Turkic Empire, Egypt and Persia. Translated by Mohammadtaher Mirza & Gholamreza Warahram. (1992). Tehran: Ettelaat. [Persian] URL:http://fipak.areo.ir/site/catalogue/18450075

Polak, J. E. (1865). Persia the country and its inhabitants. Translated by Keykavous Jahandari. (1989). 2^nd Ed. Tehran: Kharazmi. [Persian] URL:https://www.iranketab.ir/book/31422-persien

Polak, Y. (1982). Pollock's Travelogue; Iran and Iranians. Translated by Kikavus Jahandari. (1989). Tehran: Kharazmi. https://noorlib.ir/book/info/10715/

Rice, C. C. (1923). Persian Women & Their Ways: The Experiences & Impressions of a Long Sojourn among the Women of the Land of the Shah with an Intimate Description of Their Characteristics, Customs & Manner of Living. Translated by Asadollah Azad. (2004). Tehran: Ketabdar. [Persian] URL:https://www.gisoom.com/book/1275878/

Rugh, A., (1987). Reveal & Conceal: Dress in Contemporary Egypt. New York: Syracuse University Press. URL: https://www.amazon.com/Reveal-Conceal-Contemporary-Issues-Middle/dp/0815623682

Saltykov, A. D. (1873). Voyage en Perse Traduit en Persan. Translated by Mohsen Sabaa. (1975). Tehran: Bongaah-e Tarjome va Nashr-e Ketab. [Persian] URL:https://ketabnak.com/book/22691/

Serena, M. C. (1981). My journey: personal memories. Translated by Aliasghar Seyyedi. (1983). Tehran: Zavar. [Persian] URL: https://www.gisoom.com/book/1114/

Shahri, J. (1999). Social history of Tehran in the 13 ^th century (Life, Business). 3^rd.Ed. Tehran: Rasa. [Persian] URL:https://www.karaketab.com/download/history/iran/2251

Shahri, J. (2004). Old Tehran. 4^th Ed. Tehran: Moien. [Persian]  URL:https://www.iranketab.ir/book/25323-old-tehran

Shahshahani, S. (2017). Persian Clothing during the Qajar Reign. Tehran: Farhangsaray-e Mirdashti. [Persian] URL:https://taaghche.com/book/75960/

Sheil, M. L. (1856). Glimpses of Life and Manners in Persia. Translated by Hoseyn Aboutorabian. (1983). Tehran: Nashrenow. [Persian] URL: https://www.gisoom.com/book/131919/

Sparroy, W. (1901). Persian children of the Royal family. Translated by Fazlollah  hahloueipour. (2004). Tehran: Offical Site Of Iran's Pen Association. [Persian] URL:https://www.gisoom.com/book/1180002/

Stark, F. (1934). The Valleys of the Assassins and other Persian Travels. Translated by Alimohammad Saaki. (1985). Tehran: Elmi. [Persian] URL: https://www.karaketab.com/download/travel/5405

Tancoigne, M. (1819). Letters on Persia and Asian Turkey. Translated by Aliasghar Saiedi Trans. (1999). Tehran: Cheshme. [Persian] URL: https://www.gisoom.com/book/1302754/

Waring, E. S. (1804) Tour to Sheeraz by the Route of Kazroon and Feerozabad. Translated by Abdolreza Kalmarzi and Reza Salehian Koushk Qazi. (2018). Tehran: Namak. [Persian] URL:https://www.gisoom.com/book/11408309/

Wills, J. Ch. (1883). In the Land of the Lion and Sun, or Modern Persia: Being Experiences of Life in Persia from 1866 to 1881. Translated by Gholamhoseyn Qaragouzlou. (2009). Tehran: Eqbal. [Persian] URL:https://www.gisoom.com/book/125646/

Wills, J. Ch. (1886). Persia as It Is: Being Sketches of Modern Persian life and Character. Translated by Jamshid Seyyedabdollah. (1984). Tehran: Zarrin. [Persian] URL:https://didavarbook.com/products/32088/

Wishard, J. (1908). Twenty Years in Persia. Translated by Ali Pirnia (2020). Tehran: Persainblue. [Persian] URL:https://www.iranketab.ir/book/33424-twenty-years-in-persia.

Zoka, Y. (1957). Iranian Female Clothing from the 13^th/ 19^th Century to Today. Tehran: Edarey-e Mouzeha va Farhang-e Amme. [Persian] URL: https://www.karaketab.com/download/history/iran/5207

URL1:https://www.metmuseum.org (Access Date: 12/9/2022)

URL2: https://www.britishmuseum.org/(Access Date: 12/9/2022)

URL3: https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/ (Access Date: 12/8/2022)

URL4: https://www.vam.ac.uk/(Access Date: 12/8/2022)